1. Table Leakage

Avoid diamonds with a white region just inside the table, but pale pink is OK.

White leakage in centre = Bad

Pale Pink in the centre = OK

2. Edge to Edge Brilliance

Diamonds with bright pink / red right across the stone to the upper girdle (outside) facets have ‘edge to edge’ brilliance; this makes them appear to be much larger.

Excellent Edge to Edge Brilliance

Very Good Edge to Edge Brilliance

Fair Edge to Edge Brilliance

3. Optical Symmetry

Look for great ‘optical’ symmetry; a perfect dark 8 rayed star. Many of these will be Hearts & Arrows.

Excellent Ideal-Scope

= Excellent Hearts

= Excellent Arrows

4. Head Shadow/Darkness

How much black or darkness do you see in the stone? Too much and the diamond will appear dark and lifeless. Too little and it will have less fire and scintillation.

Even Head Shadow

Too Much Head Shadow

Too Little Head Shadow

Do not worry about table size, facet meet points and alignment, pavilion depth or crown height and angles. The diamond either performs or it does not! Proportion and symmetry grades try to predict a diamonds cut quality. But why try to predict when you can use an ideal-scope?